|Date:||Name & E-mail:||Topic:||Comment:|
|2007-08-19||Gil Gilbert||Fuel Gauge||This is the type of Tygon tubing in my Mite: Tygon® Fuel and Lubricant Tubing F-4040-A|
|2007-08-18||Scott Royall||Fuel Gauge||
Beware! TYGON® SE-200 Inert Tubing is listed as EXCELLENT by its manufacturer for use with AUTOMOTIVE gasoline. BUT THERE ARE ABOUT 20 OTHER TYGON PRODUCTS THAT ARE LISTED AS UNSATISFACTORY FOR AUTOMOTIVE GASOLINE. (Gil obviously got the right kind.) And no Tygon products showed up for use with "gasoline". (I don't know enough about avgas and auto gas to know why or how they are different, but some people - like the FAA - seem to make a big deal about it.)
I'm looking for a new sight tube for my fuel tank so I decided to check out Tygon on the web. Can anyone enlighten me about why this inert tubing would be ok with auto gas but might not work with avgas?
|2007-08-12||Gil Gilbert||Fuel Gauge||Paul, I must correct myself when I wrote that I used Lexan to replace my fuel gauge I didn't. Today I was looking at the Mite to figure out what should be done next when I checked the fuel gauge tubing and the name TYGON was printed on the tubing. I believe I replaced the hardware store tubing with TYGON in the middle '80s. My last encounter with plastic was Lexan when I replaced a window in the Piper Arrow. I apologize for the misinformation. So far the TYGON is still flexable and clear. It has a yellow tint.|
|2007-08-11||Paul Workman||Fuel Gauge||Hi Folks, I have a bit of concern regarding the tubing used on Mite fuel sight gauges. Lexan (Polycarbonate) has been mentioned as an option for the gauge tubing a few times and this is a concern to me! Our experience with lexan in aviation use has mixed results... It is nearly impossible to break, (you can hammer on it forever) so it can be a nice choice for windows that may take a beating. However, we have repeatedly found that when exposed to aviation fuel, polycarbonate can quickly react and develope deep crazing which then often can crack completely through the thickness of the material. I'm no chemist, but I recommend that owners research materials carefully before using an unknown for the fuel gauge.|
|2007-08-09||David Hutton||Generator and voltage regulator issues||Recently, while flying Mite 4051, instead of indicating the regular 13.4 volts, the meter started indicating 9.4. When I landed for fuel, my battery was dead and I had to hand prop the engine to start it. My question is: Where can I purchase a 12 V regulator? The regulator is the old type with points and copper coils. My second question is: Do I have to pull the engine to get the generator out? I have only an inch of clearance between the end of the generator and the firewall. Finally, can anyone tell me if the voltage regulator can be checked while off the plane? I did file the points and it appears good. I will be very grateful for any help or counsel. David Hutton, 4051|
|2007-08-08||Dave Rutherford||Fuel Gauge||Futher notes: Ted says the tubing he used came from Aircraft Spruce. He says their catalog shows a tubing suitable for gasoline in experimental aircraft (it's not certified). According to Glenn Bell, the best replacement tubing seems to be Lexan, 1/4" in diameter, about 2 feet in length. It is stiffer that other plastics but stronger. Cut it a little long because you can bend it so it will slip into the little metal fitting (elbow) coming out of the tank. Ted used safety wire to tie the ends, but Glenn found you can use little rubber O-rings underneath the brass nuts to make a good, tight seal.|
|2007-07-30||Larry Minch||Fuel Gauge||After reading Ted Teach's comments a while ago I have been watching my fuel gauge tubing for signs of shrinking. Nothing was apparent. On a preflight this morning the top of the plastic tubing was completely off the upper attachment. The tubing was almost a half inch shorter than it had been when it was held in position with a small hose clamp. I believe that a simple test every few months would disclose this problem so that it didn't happen in flight and worse, have it happen on the bottom fitting where gasoline would leak from the tank. Loosen the top fitting to test the tension on the tubing. If it is still long enough it will remain in place. If it has shrunk then replace it before it comes off on it's own.|
|2007-07-16||Scott Royall||Auxiliary tank||Hi Mike, These photos are on the C-55, the storyfoam foam blank for making an aux. tank, and the M-18C tank that I have.|
|2007-07-15||Gil Gilbert||Auxiliary tank||Hi Mike, I guess after 50 years we can't expect to find two Mites that are the same. The attachment illustrates an L model with a short tank, a C model with a long tank, and an L model with a long tank. I made these illustrations for Dave Mazzola to last year to answer a question that I don't remember. Maybe he wanted to do the same as you want to. The second attachment shows the overall dimensions for both tanks. N380A is Dave's Mite, N4121 is my Mite that I hope to get back in the air this summer. N353A is a basket case I bought and rescued about 4 years ago.|
|2007-07-13||Dave Rutherford||Auxiliary tank||In regard to replacement tanks being available, you may have luck with either Norm Douthit, Paul Workman or Boyd Maddox. Generally, the only items that I hear of for sale are posted on the Buy & Sell page.|
|2007-07-13||Michael Harms||Auxiliary tank||I had the main tank in Glenn's old Mite removed to repair a leak. The mechanic at PTV did the removal and I don't remember what is involved, but I know Glenn does. I don't know anyone who is selling a tank but Dave Rutherford may. Will still send pix after going to PTV July 21-22.|
|2007-07-13||Mike Magnani||Auxiliary tank||Wow, you know, I never considered filling the aux tank by letting the main gravity feed into it. And I suppose a guy could just a manual fuel gauge (float type) and save himself some wiring. So many things to think about. While you're in picture-taking mode, I wonder if you could take a few shots of how the -55 supports the main tank in the fuselage. I know mine used straps, but I think there may be a better way. Thanks for the help. Ps: Do you know of anyone who's selling a 15 gallon fuel tank?|
|2007-07-13||Michael Harms||Auxiliary tank||But next weekend I will be [in Porterville] and take pix of the aux tanks in both -55's for a Monday email. . I think they are 11 gallons and one of them is plumbed in very nicely. On most of the installations I have seen the filler is on the side of the fuselage and nearly vertical. This makes filling without spilling practically impossible. N201MM has a fuel switching arrangement that allows: off, feed from the main, feed from the aux, and also gravity drain from the main to the aux. So if fuel from the aux has been used you fill the main, switch to the "gravity drain" position, wait a little, and then re-fill the main. The main is easy to fill compared to the aux tank. The aux tank has an electric fuel gauge to indicate status so you don't overfill it. This doesn't sound like much but if you get as peeved as I do when fuel is spilled on the side of the fuselage, it's amazingly satisfying.|
|2007-07-13||Mike Magnani||Auxiliary tank||[e-mail to Michael Harms] The fuselage section of N4094 is getting close to being ready for varnish, but I want to do something about my puny little 9.7 gallon main fuel tank. I've been asking around if anyone has a 15 gallon tank, but haven't had much luck yet. I may end up modifying my little one to extend farther aft to get the capacity I want. But the real reason I'm writing is to ask you about the Auxiliary Tank in your -55. I think I remember that yours comes up very high and that it looks to be about 10 gallons in size. Is this true?|
|2007-07-03||Glen Brodeur||Value of prop?||Greetings, Some years ago, I acquired a Lycoming O-145 engine with logs from a derelict Mooney Mite. I own a Taylorcraft BL-65 which I intend to use this engine with. Looking through the log books for this engine, I found a signature in the first couple of entries " Al W. Mooney". Is the THE man? I have always been a huge fan of this creative genius and it would be a big kick if I had an engine from a plane that pulled Al Mooney through the air. All that being said, I also got a prop with that engine. I would like to sell that prop as I cannot use it on my Tcraft. Would it be of interest to members of your club? I cannot attest to or could I guarantee that this prop went with this particular engine but I bought them from the same person. I also cannot attest to its airworthiness as I am not an A&P. Could anyone give me an estimate of its worth? Best Regards Glen Brodeur Putnam, CT|
|2007-06-18||Stephen Lowther||Need parts||I had to make an emergency landing in my Mite last sept, (and broke it ). I need the forward steel tube frame from a Lycoming Mite, and a left main landing gear. Is anyone parting out a Mite?|
|2007-06-18||Dick Willliams||Landing gear rigging||Has anyone devised a "check gauge" as shown on page two and three of "Landing Gear Rigging", Mooney 18 Parts Service Manual? Dick Williams|
|2007-06-15||Larry Minch||Oil Filters||Gil, here are the pictures of the oil filter on N4187. Larry|
|2007-06-10||Gil Gilbert||Oil Filters||Are there any Mites out there that have an oil filter installed on the A65-8? Like an Airwolf. Gil Gilbert. N4121.|
|2007-05-31||Scott Royall||Weld joints||Good News! After the scare from Mike about the cracks found in his frame I hurried in and had a magnaflux test on my frame. All the weld joints on my Mite tested good. I am glad I spent the effort while I had the frame down to bare metal to have the test done. It is worth the peace of mind to know that there are not any major flaws in the welds. One small step closer to flying. Scott Royall Keller Williams Utah Realtors 6965 Union Park Center Suite 160 Salt Lake City, Utah 84047 Phone (801) 856-8856 firstname.lastname@example.org|
|2007-05-14||Gil Gilbert||Stabilizer mounting brackets||Hi David, What you need is a copy of The Mooney Mite Assembly Manual. It will show you all the parts, part numbers and how they all go together. From the way you described your problem it appears you are missing the steel triangular truss that the vertical and horizontal stabs are bolted to. Paul Workman may have one of those. The horiz. stab bolts onto the truss in three places. Two at the spar and one where the trailing edge is joined together. The vertical stab bolts to the bottom of the truss and to the approximate center of the horiz. stab. The front of the truss has the interface that fits into the brackets on the rear bulk head. Gil Gilbert.|
|2007-05-14||David Hutton||Stabilizer mounting brackets||Gil, thanks for the information regarding the Continental engine manual… When my tail was disassembled, the two horizontal stabilizer mounting brackets were lost. These are the two brackets that mount on the stabilizer. I have the ones on the rear bulkhead. Please, does anyone know where I can purchase replacements? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.|
|2007-05-13||Tim Slater||Landing gear and parts||Hello All, Disregard my last question as it is hard to follow and I found a solution. However I have a few questions. Number one is when rigging the landing gear, I noticed a lot of side to side play in the mains. It looks like (what looks like a piece of brass) what connects the truss to the mains itself is where the problem is. The holes could be elongated in that brass piece or in the brackets of the main gear and the truss. How much play is allowed? And where can I get parts? Also I need a windshield and canopy. I also need the four rubber boots for the nose wheel. Two of them are for each rudder pedal going through the floor, and the other two are for the retract rods. All help is greatly appreciated. Respond to Hiflyer746@yahoo.com. Thanks.|
|2007-05-09||Gil Gilbert||re: 75HPContinental||Hello David Hutton, I have an Overhaul Manual and Parts Catalog For the Continental "C" Series 4 cylinder engines [FORM X-30008]. Both the A65 and A75 are included. The A-75 rated RPM is 2600 and the recommended cruise RPM is 2350. There are 3 carbs listed in the manual, Stromberg NA-S3A1, Stromberg NA-S3B,and Marvel MA-3PA. I don't know anything about the Strombergs, but I was told by someone that they were used on John Deere tractors at one time. The MA-3PA will lean the engine for cruise and the throttle can also prime the engine for starting. I am sure there are some other Mite owners that know more about carbs than I do. You might look at the Fresno Airparts add in Trade a Plane for the manual, there is one listed for $17.50. Good Luck, Gil Gilbert. N4121|
|2007-05-09||Charlie Collman||Shoulder harness||Lew, In reply to your request for information on the installation on shoulder harness in a Mite, the attached photos show how they are attached in N4168. Note that the seat back has been extended so that the straps are higher than your shoulders. This would protect you from downward pressures on your spine in case of a severe crash. These modifications were made by the previous owner - Larry Dale. I hope that this information will assist you. Charlie Collman N4168|
|2007-05-09||Tim Slater||Aileron pushrods||Hello all, I've painted the wing and ailerons and am mounting them. I have found a discouraging problem. The guy that covered the wing put the inspection panel that is located just outside of the pushrod going from the bellcrank to the aileron too close to the pushrod. I need to put a hole in the fabric for the pushrod to go through to connect the bellcrank and aileron. However that hole is going to be right over the retaining ring of the inspection hole. Any suggestions? My only thought so far is that I'll make new pushrods with a jog in them so they poke through the fabric before the inspection hole. I could make it work that way, but not sure what else my options are. Please respond to my email. Hiflyer746@yahoo.com. Thanks alot. Tim|
|2007-05-08||David Hutton||Questions re: Continental 75HP||Hi everyone! Thanks so much for all the useful information you all gave me regarding wood and the rear bulkhead. As owner of 4051, I have a 75 hp Continental engine and have been told that it redlines at 2150 rpm. Is that correct? I also note that when I taxi, leaning the mixture has no effect. However, in flight, any leaning at all will cause the engine to start to stall. I have been told that it is because of the nature of the carb… Will someone please explain that to me? Again, thank you to everyone who provides so much assistance. And thank you to the Mooney Mite site… You are wonderful!!!|
|2007-04-26||Paul Workman||Landing gear donuts||Hey Folks, The first set of rebuilt Mite landing gear donuts is available! Rebuilt means that the original part is dismantled, the original conical steel base washer is reused, and the rubber part of the donut is replaced with the same durometer (hardness) rubber as was on the original part. I've been working with a company that has worked with vintage aircraft restorers for years reworking rubber products, engine shock mounts, etc. They have spent a good deal of their time and materials on this project because they like old airplanes ...very accomodating, if not risky on their part! Price is $810.00 per set plus a $10.00 per donut refundable core charge. The core charge is there to make sure that we get used donuts back, thus allowing us to repair more donuts. PLEASE DON'T THROW AWAY ANY USED DONUTS! I'm as aware as anyone that this seems like a ridiculous price, but as usual, nothing in aviation comes easy or cheap. The process required to mould a part like this is far more complex than I ever imagined,and becomes more difficult when there is only a limited demand. No one else has a use for these parts. I'm not making a profit on this. If you need this set of donuts please call me at 740-452-1636. Paul Workman|
|2007-04-21||Michael Magnani||Bulkhead repairs||Hi all, Mike Magnani here, N4094, s/n 271. I suppose I should add my comments to the discussion on the bulkhead repair. I started working on mine because I noticed that the lower right hand longeron glue joint had gone bad at the bulkhead. The only way to fix it was to take the whole assembly apart, clean and inspect everything and reglue it back together. What I found was that even though everything else looked OK, with a very little bit of tapping and prying, the whole thing came apart very easily.... [to see photos, click here]|
|2007-04-19||Scott Royall||Bulkhead cracks||Hi Dave and Tom: My rear bulkhead looked about like yours when I took the tail off of N4172.(See Photo 1) It is an indicator of serious water damage throughout the lower section of the fuselage and wing. The plywood skin can become brittle from being wet and dry to often or soft from dry rot. I also found rot at the forward end of the lower longerons and the shear web had delaminated from the center section of the main spar on the front and the back.... [To see the rest of Scott's message, plus photos, click here]|
|2007-04-19||Paul Workman||Bulkhead cracks||Hey folks, I noticed the discussion and photos concerning cracks and deterioration of rear bulkheads in Mites. As Keith said in his note, this is kind of a big deal with Mites! I'm of the opinion that the aft section of Mites should be completely dissassembled every 10 years or so and well inspected. Yea, I know it's a lot of hassle and/ or expense, but I think a tail section like that in the photos could really scare you once you get it apart and see the condition of some of the glue joints and possibly the wood as well. In my experience, I've found that once the metal fittings and reinforcements are removed, sometimes the tiny nails are the only thing holding the rear bulkhead onto the fuselage. I'm not saying that this particular airplane is in that condition, but it's certainly worth having a really good look at things. The rear bulkhead is not terribly difficult to remove, repair, or remake if necessary.
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but these airplanes were originally built with caseine glue. Caseine glue works wonderfully for many years as long as it is kept very dry. The problem is that the tail of a Mite (as well as several other areas) is really hard to keep dry. Since the Mite tends to sit tail low on the ground, water goes to and stays at the tail. Also consider that the tail section of the Mite is such that water can get into the tail fairly easily and the rear bulkhead, vertical stab, and horizontal stab spars get considerable exposure to the elements. I think it's important to remember that even though most of us try to hangar our little treasures, and most Mite flying is fair weather stuff, we can still introduce plenty of moisture into these places simply by giving the plane its spring bath, a day or two in the rain somewhere, or simply from condensation. We tend to disregard these occasional little events but once water is allowed to get in there, it may take quite some time for it to dry out.
I encourage all Mite owners to take some extra time and effort at annual time to check out areas such as this, even though it's not in an AD or service letter. It's also a great time to change out rusty bolts, and to clean and repaint metal fittings. The bottom line is that wood airplanes need this extra bit of attention! The M-18 is a remarkable flying machine and a neat bit of aviation history. Let's Keep 'em safe!
|2007-04-19||Eli DeSouza||M-18 weight limitations||I would like to obtain more information related to the M-18 weight limitations and operation in mountain flying and high altitude airfields. I live in Colorado and I weight 200lbs without gear. I fell in love with the Mite design a few months ago, but I don’t know if it would be a good option for my settings in searching for an appropriate sport flying aircraft. Eli DeSouza, PO Box 338 Vail, CO 81658 (970) 389 3324|
|2007-04-18||Keith Mackey||Bulkhead cracks||Tom: Great pictures. Now I understand the problem. I'm hopeful we can find a way to share information on fixes to common problems with detailed photos as a means of helping those with little wood aircraft experience from some of the "experts" who have owned and rebuilt Mite's for many years. The Mite site is the perfect place for that information to be archived....[to see Keith's full reply, including photos, click here].|
|2007-04-17||Gil Gilbert||Bulkhead cracks||Hello David Hutton: To answer your question about reinforcement plates (fish plates?) the answer is yes. Every Mite should have an aluminum plate on the front face and one on the rear face. I believe the plates are the result of an AD note. I do not know the number and it doesn't appear to be listed on the mite site. My 1953 Mite N4121 had the plates installed when I bought it in 1973. I have serial number 14, an L model, that have plates installed but they are not the same as the mite drawings. The M18X drawing numbers are 355140 for the front face and 355150 for the rear face. Paul Workman may have these plates if not I can send you some copies of the drawings.
It seems a little odd that cracks would show up on the rear face of the rear bulkhead. The bulkheads are made from vertical grain 3/8 spruce with 1/8 45 degree plywood on the front and rear. So if you are finding cracks between holes something like a tail skid strike must have happened. There has been two cases of tail skid strikes I know of that resulted in damage to the rear bulkhead. Good Luck, Gil Gilbert.
|2007-04-17||Tom Neeb||Bulkhead crack photos||Dave, here are a couple of shots showing the cracks. I am sure open for suggestions, especially on the fin spar. Thanks, Tom.|
|2007-04-11||David Hutton||Bulkhead cracks||David Hutton, owner of 4051 here…Tom Neeb, A&P in Abilene has disassembled the tail section to check for damage and cracks. He found a couple of small cracks between holes in the tail bulkhead. There is, however, in the past, someone attached a "fishplate" that reinforces the bulkhead. My question is, is this a common practice or do you know of another common fix? Thanks for any advice you can give. 325-396-2404|
|2007-04-07||Andrew||Mite cockpit dimensions||Does anyone know of a place to find or know what the dimensions of the cockpit are? I'm looking for information on the width, length, height, etc. Please email me if you know at email@example.com Thanks, Andrew|
|2007-04-04||Lew Moon||shoulder harness||I have seen Mooney Mites with shoulder harness and would like to install them in my 4180. Can anyone tell me where to anchor them? Lew Moon|
|2007-04-03||Keith Mackey||canopy rollers||Ray: Per the M-18 parts catalogue on the Mite Site, the canopy roller bearings is a Fafner K3L2. These are aircraft bearings and are available, but a bit expensive. Here's one source:
Here is a the Fafner catalogue in .pdf format that explains all about bearing nomenclature and provides CAD drawings of the K3L2. http://www.fafnir.cz/fafnir_pdf/07control.pdf. Keith, N4159
|2007-04-02||Ray Allen||canopy rollers||I've had a 3 year hiatus. Returning to the shop is like going into a new one. I'm having fun looking for parts. I cannot find the canopy rollers. I need the source for replacement rollers. If any one has a source or specifications, please let me know. Ray Allen|
|2007-04-02||Jason Depew||Mite insurance||I got a quote from Avemco. They said it'd be $403 for 500k liability, but neither they or AOPA will insure an M-18 hull. (That was for a commercial pilot, 650 total time with plenty on retract time). Thanks for posting my question on Mitetalk...I've gotten some other helpful info from it as well.|
|2007-03-25||Larry Minch||Mite insurance||Jason, my Mite N4187 is insured through Avemco. No hull coverage, only liability. Avemco wouldn't do hull. What else do you need to know? Larry Minch|
|2007-03-23||Jason Depew||Mite insurance||I've been looking at Mites for a long time and I recently saw N4102 for sale on your website. The price is such that I'm considering the possibility of buying it, but I'm looking for more information first. Specifically, what companies will insure an M-18 (AOPA won't...I just called) and about how much does it cost? (I'm a commercial pilot with about 650 hours.) Beyond that, do you have any general advice about Mites? They look like fun, simple aircraft and I think I would enjoy flying one.|
|2007-03-21||Tim Slater||Landing Gear Parts||I’m looking for a source of new main landing gear retract springs. I am also looking for a way to restore my trim wheel indicator. Is there a source of decals anywhere for that particular part? The aircraft is an M-18L 1949 s/n 62, N101C. Please email to me at Hiflyer746@yahoo.com. Thankyou.|
|2007-03-19||Dick Rank||Wood Deterioration||Hi: Your "dull sound" caused me to think about web delamination. Moisture sometimes causes the plywood face of the spar to separate a little. However, after rechecking the spar blueprints, there is an open area inside the spar starting almost at the fuselage between the upper spar member and the lower member, and gradually getting wider as you look toward the wing tip. I will also do the same tapping on my Mite today and report back to you.|
|2007-03-17||Gil Gilbert, N4121||Wood Deterioration||Hello Tom, The results of your tapping is normal. I did the same thing to 4121 and heard the same sounds. Are you familiar with how the main spar is constructed? If not I can send you sketch to illustrate how the upper and lower spar caps look inboard of the gear attach area.|
|2007-03-16||Tom Neeb||Wood Deterioration||Has anyone experienced a dull sound when tapping the rear of the main spar directly inboard of the landing gear attach bolts? Both above and below this line the taps indicate solid. This soft sound is about 8" in length. This is on N4051.|
|2007-03-12||Michael Hale||Engine swap?||these little airplanes interest me.. i have a quick question.. i have been told the lyc. engine is hard to find parts for... is this true? and if so.. how hard is it to convert it to a cont. engine?|
|2007-02-25||Lew Moon||Gap seals||I have gap seals on my 55 Mite. I don't know if it helps but I like the fact that they are there and I assume they help. They do look good. I have made a couple take-offs forgetting the bring the flaps up after a landing and it gets off the ground faster and seems to climb just fine. I was told not to do that so I try not to. Lew Moon, 4180|
|2007-02-24||Dave Mazzola||Mylar gap seals?||Does anybody have an opinion for using Mylar tape as a gap seal at the hinge points of the stab to elevator and fin to rudder assembly? The sailplaners have used a Mylar tape gap seal system for years, and from what I gather...with good success. But have any Mooneymiters given it a try? Dave Mazzola|
|2007-02-22||Ray Sansoucy||Need pilot to ferry.||Hi All: Looking for a Mite driver to ferry my 485M from Florida to Massachusetts in March or early April. Experienced only please. Lets talk! Ray, at 772 567 2454 or cell @ 508 450 6318|
|2007-02-22||Scott Royall||Need ride to WAMM Fly-in||If anyone from east of Utah (or willing to come to Utah on the way) is going to be flying to the WAMM Fly-in in May in something larger than a Mite, I'd like to share expenses and hitch a ride. Scott Royall, 6965 Union Park Center Suite 160, Salt Lake City, Utah 84047 Phone (801)856-8856|
|2007-02-13||John Blevins||Commute in a Mite?||I presently commute 42 nm each way to work on most days in a Piper Arrow (1969 200 hp, 142 knots on 10gph). The plane is well equipped and has been sufficient to carry my wife, 3 kids and me. But, now they are growing and I am looking at a larger family plane - maybe a partnership on a Lance. For the commuting mission, I am looking for an economical plane, both in maintenance and fuel economy. I need to have a simple plane with a good dispatch rate (rarely broken once in good shape). Does the Mite meet my needs? The Arrow has been good to me. I have finished my CFI and put about 500 hrs of complex over the last 2 years of ownership, but I need something with better fuel economy if I am going to justify continuing to commute. Oh yeah, where do you put your backpack or the "75 lbs of luggage"? Thanks, John.|
|2007-02-11||Ben Favrholdt||Gap Seals||Some of my thoughts about the flap gap strips. I installed them on my previous Mite, but the Mite I now have doesn't have them.
It appears to me that those strips, and landing gear doors, don't do much to increase cruise speed, but they will give you a better rate of climb. Back in the 70's I made a take-off at Friday harbor in Washington. It was a short runway at the time, and I decided to use flaps for the take-off. Big mistake. The Mite lifted off prematurely and started to drift toward the trees. I just barely made it out of there.
Since then, I never use flaps for any operations. Several other Mite owners also never use the flaps. The Mite doesn't need them, and I wish that Al Mooney had not installed them on the Mite. If, on a landing approach, you have full flaps (16.5 degrees) and you have to make a go-around, you will have a degraded performance. Much like a Cessna 150 trying to make a go-around with 40 degrees of flaps deployed.
|2007-01-24||Dick Rank||Gap seals||Hi, Dave: On 118C, there were long aluminum gap seals screwed into the trailing edge wood, probable put on by Tony Terrigno when he rebuilt it. I did not put them on again after my restoration. The literature on flaps and aileron performance says that gap seals lower flap effectiveness somewhat. As usual, a compromise has to be made. Which is more important to the owner, flap effectiveness or speed? Dick|
|2007-01-23||Dave Rutherford||Gap seals||
We understand that Mooney put gap seals only on C-55 models. Did they do it because they were actually useful, or were they just an experiment to see if they would increase performance?
We are asking for an e-mail response from Mite owners (any model) who can help us evaluate gap seals. Please report whether or not you have gap seals on your airplane. It would be especially useful to receive comments from anyone who has flown Mites both with and without gap seals.
|2006-11-29||Scott Royall||Stall speed||Ron, use the search feature on the Mite Site for "stall speed" and you will get all the reference you need. You can also look under the Articles tab on the front page for History and Miscellaneous Items categories to find some copies of original sales brochures that list Specifications. If Canadian rules are the same as US rules you will also run into a problem with the retractable gear. Since the one you are looking at is experimental there is an easy fix to make the gear fixed. If you are interested send me a note and I'll go into some more detail. I hope this helps. Scott Royall, Salt Lake City, Utah.|
|2006-11-29||Ron Hynes||Stall speed||I have been interested in owning a good Continental powered M18C for some time. Could someone tell me what the Stall speed would be given in the Type Certificate. I have a chance to purchase a Mite that is listed as Homebuilt here in Canada but I have to somehow show a Legitimate Stall Speed of 45MPH maximum so as to fly it with a Canadian Ultra light Permit. I have held Higher Ratings for some 40 years but would now like to simplify life more. A good Mooney Mite would do fine for me but the Stall Speed may be to high to be Legal here in our U/L Category. Thanking you all in advance and thanks for the wonderful Web Site. Ron Hynes, Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada.|
|2006-11-27||Scott Royall||Mite collector card||There is another collector card on eBay if anyone is interested.|
|2006-11-22||Dave Rutherford||Re: Mite photo||Dick, I posted your note in MiteTalk, then I did some searching in my database. N4053 is missing and I have no record of it, so I took it to be N4057, number 249. N4057 is now owned by Walter Dix of Winterhaven, FL and is in red on white livery. However, it was once owned by David Russell of Ft. Lauderdale in 1974-79. I don't have a photo of it back then, but my records show it was coloured red, white and black, and had an A-65-8, gear doors, and a Pitts spinner. Dave.|
|2006-11-22||Dick Rank||Mite photo||I just came across a color photo of Mite N4057 (or 4053). The last number is partially obscured by the wing. It is red with white trim and a black stripe, and has a continental engine. It is parked next to an F-86 in camo colors. The F-86 has AF and 53 in smaller black letters on the tail, and a large white 255 on the vertical stabilizer. I could not find anything on the register. If there is an owner out there, I would be glad to send the picture. Dick|
|2006-11-21||Dave Mazzola, N380A||Fuel tank removal||I want to lower the twelve gallon fuel tank in my L model Mite to inspect where the metal straps are attached inside the top of the fuselage. Eyeballing the clearance from the side of the tank and the wood stringers, it appears to me that there isn't enough room to clear when lowering the tank. Any suggestions?|
|2006-11-14||Norman Gracy||Wig-Wag gear warning system||I flew a Mooney Mite at Wichita, KS in 1956. I was going through SAC's B-47 copilot school at the time. The Mooney Mite had a WIG Wag gear warning in it. I would like to find a schematic/ drawing that could explain how it worked. Any help along these lines would be appreciated. Sincerely, Norman F. Gracy Leesburg, Florida USAF Retired|
|2006-11-10||Gil Gilbert, N4121||Fuel Line (re: Ted Teach article)||OK Ted Teach, what material did you use for the replacement gauge? Did you use Lexan?|
|2006-10-18||Scott Royall||Dick's Mooney Mite Collector Card||Hi Dick,
In the third grade vernacular - -"Na na na. I got one too!" I found the card for sale on Ebay and bought it just for the bragging rights. It is just like yours. I guess hundreds were made but I expect only a few still remain. Now we know where two of them are.
|2006-10-15||Ben Favrholdt||Tires||Here is something interesting: Look in the Aircraft Spruce catalog on page 203 (2003 ) edition. In the upper right hand corner under the AZUSA lite nylon wheels, they show 4.80x400x8 tire and tube assembly for $15.40 each. This is the size we use on the Mites. They are probably made in China, but at that price, we could afford to replace them every few years.|
|2006-10-05||Paul Workman||Engine RPM||Hi Jim, I'm curious as to what particular prop you are running, Sensenich or Flothorp, and the length/pitch. On the couple of Mites that I have been involved with, (M-18Cs with Sensenich 65-54 props) cruise has been 120 - 125 mph @ 7-8 thousand MSL. Static RPM with these props seems to be right around 1900 RPM. If your static RPM is much more than this I believe that could account for a lower cruise. I have never flown a Continental powered Mite with the Flothorp prop but I'm told that they don't perform as well either in take-off or cruise. I would like to see an opinion on this from owners who are running M-18-Cs with the Flothorp. Unless your Mite is really heavy for some reason it should run right up towards 120 mph with the rest. Best Regards! Paul Workman|
|2006-09-20||Gil Gilbert||Engine RPM||Jim, you mentioned you have a standard prop. Is the prop a climb prop or cruise prop? Look at page 4 of the Aircraft Specification No. A-803. You will find the prop requirements for both the Flottorp and Sensenich.
When is the last time the tachometer was checked by an instrument shop? I am getting my Mite ready to fly after about 10 years in storage and will have to break in a zero-time engine. I have had the tach, oil pressure, oil temp, and cyl temp gauges checked. All were good except the tach and it was worn out. As far as I know the tach has been in the Mite since 1953 and it indicates 1644 hrs. I am going to replace the AC tach with a new Mitchell tach that is suppose to be the replacement for the AC.
|2006-09-20||Ben Favrholdt||Engine RPM||Jim, the A-65 and the Lycoming 0-145 B2 are totally different engines, and constructed differently. The A-65 has removable cylinders and the Lycoming has the cylinders cast as part of the engine case. Also, the Lycoming has less cubic inch displacement than the Continental, so it gets its 65 hp by using a prop to to make it run at a higher rpm. The book says it is rated at 2550 rpm to get the 65 hp.
The weakest part of the Lycoming is the valves. That can cause problems, but there are still some shops that can overhaul the heads. The bottom end of the Lyc 65 is rock solid and a friend of mine ran his engine for about 3000 hours before he had to install new pistons and hone the cylinders.
My Mite has the A-65, and at 2000 feet altitude, 1900 rpm (since I am not really going anywhere, just cruising around the hills) , I get about 105 mph. If I run it up to 2300 rpm, I get about 120 mph. I think that your Mite is running in the normal range.
If your Mite does not have landing gear doors, you might want to consider installing them. You won't see much increase in speed, but it improves the rate of climb quite a bit. The advantage of the A-65 is that parts are cheap and plentiful on the market. Lyc 65 parts are very expensive and in short supply. One advantage of the Lycoming is that it is a very smooth running engine. My previous Mite had the Lyc 65.
|2006-09-14||Jim Belding||Engine RPM||Engine question: My Continental A65-8 redlines at 2300 rpm, while the Lycoming goes to 2500. I hope someone can tell me why this is, and could it run safely at 2400 or more? My Mite is clean and rigged perfectly, but at 2300 rpm, even at 8-10 thousand feet, I'm lucky to get 90-95 knots at less than full throttle with a standard prop.|
|2006-08-04||Gil Gilbert||Tachometer||I need to know if any of you Mite owners have replaced the old AC tachometer (I assume this tach is the original: it indicated 1644 hrs.), and what you replaced it with. The shop that tested my tach recommended a Mitchell tach that is designed for 2050 cruise RPM. Also, were you able to use the old tach cable? This is important!|
|2006-08-01||Lyn Augustin||Fuel Gauge||Was there a place to get a new fuel gauge tube? Thank you.|
|2006-06-23||Lew Moon, N4180||Fly-in||I have an interesting invite to stop over in AZ should I wish to attend Porterville in Oct. I live in Northern Illinois and CA is a long ways away in a Mite for a 75 year old (me, not the Mite). Have any of you Midwestern Mite owners thought about a fly-in in the mid-west? Lew Moon - Rockford, Illinois.|
|2006-06-19||Gil Gilbert, N4121||Re: Donuts||The answer to your question is no. The reason is the M20 donut has 11.4 cubic inches of rubber per donut while the M18 donut has 6.9 cubic inches. Two M20 donuts will fit on a M18 gear but it is impossible to compress them enough to install the locking collar and bolt. I believe there are many Mite owners that need new donuts, I know I do. I think it would be good idea to ask the Mite owners if any of them have extra donuts that they do not need could make them available to some owners that need them. The best I can tell, the last cure date is 11/1984.|
|2006-06-18||WW Sellers, N11NB||Donuts||I need a full set of donuts on my Mite. Are they the same as is used on the M20?|
|2006-04-26||Jim Belding, N4096||Secure tie-down||Anyone have a suggestion as how best to secure a Mite on a windy ramp without wing tie-down rings? One ring on the tail is all I have.|
|2006-04-15||John Bergeson, N6077V||O-145 engine parts||I'm topping my Mite. I'm having crankshaft seals and pushrod tube seals made. They will be tested and then made available via Larry Brown, who is doing my cylinder heads. He is trying to get a place to make the copper/asbestos head seals. I can get the shims made via a water jet cutting machine. A gasket shop in Houston has copied all of my new old stock paper gaskets. They are now available. Clinton Anderson of Custom Aircraft is fabricating a good exhaust system for the Mite. I sent him mine to keep so that the next guy can simply order one. In fact, I sent him an exhaust system off a Lycoming J-3 also, so those guys can get some help.
Bearings: We are running out. I have a source that is slightly modifying an automotive bearing that almost fits. I'm not running these, but eventually the fleet will have to. No other choices seem to be available at this time. I'd like to drum up some interest in a new run of bearings for the O-145. We use them and there are quite a few other aircraft using them. With new bearings, these Lycoming-powered birds can be made to last indefinitely.
Meanwhile, I'd like to find a spare MA-2A carb. Also, can you point me in the direction of somebody who has an STC or 337 form for the installation of Unison/Slick mags?
|2006-04-04||Lyn Augustin||Shoulder straps||Can anyone help me find the website for Holleyshoulderstraps? 701-520-0059|
|2006-04-03||Bernie Nowlan||Starter||Has anyone put a B & C starter on a Mite with the A65-12 engine? If so, do you have a "337" for the work?|
|2006-03-23||Tim Haake||Lycoming Carburetor||I looked up your site because I knew that there are a lot of Mites with the Lycoming O-145-B engine. I have a Porterfield with an O-145-B that I bought last summer. I have been experiencing problems with carburetion and wanted to know if you had any Lycoming 65HP engine gurus that you could recommend to me. I have the Stromberg NAS2 carb on this engine which I am told by most mechanics is not a good fit although allowed in the engine Type Certificate. The preferred carb is the Marvel MA2. I am an A&P and would like to determine what main metering jet size is suppose to be in the Stromberg NAS2 carb for the Lycoming 65. There are at least four different jet sizes depending on HP and perhaps other considerations which I am not knowledgeable of. Any help from someone that is an expert on this engine and carb would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 636-240-5203 (St. Louis area)|
|2006-03-14||Larry T. Omps||Trim Controls||I am looking for someone to explain the proper operation of the trim controls of my Mite please. 540-664-2084|
|2006-03-13||Larry T. Omps||Bracket Air Filter||I am looking for the horn to attach a Bracket Air Filter to the original Mite air box. I can fabricate one, but would rather purchase one if anyone out there has one available. Contact: 171 Omps Drive Winchester, Virginia 22601. 540-664-2084|
|2006-03-04||Jeff Helmericks, N4178||Offer of help||I have seen numerous questions posted regarding engines and systems that I could have helped with in the past. I don't always check the Mite Site all that often, so if anyone needs help, please feel free to e-mail or call me anytime, and I will try to help any way I can. Regards, Jeff
|2006-03-01||Jim Belding, N4096||Help needed with stuck flange||Anyone know how to remove a stuck flange off a taper shaft Continental A65-8? I want to replace my prop, but need to change bolts. I was able to loosen the front spanner nut and noticed it has a snap ring that I can't get to either. Does it need to come off also, or should the whole thing slide off? Help desperately appreciated.|
|2006-02-10||Dave Rutherford||Rubber donuts||Would any Mite owners who are interested in purchasing a set of rubber donuts for their Mite please e-mail me. We are trying to find out if there is a demand for them.|
|2006-02-10||Gil Gilbert, N4121||Rubber donuts||Does anyone know how to find out what the ASTM Standard, SC-725 EABF, is that is called out on the Mite gear drawing of the rubber donut, part number CRE-714-1?|
|2006-02-03||Lew Moon, N4180||Engine Temp.||About cold weather flying. I have not been flying in cold weather because I can not get the engine temp above 80 degrees. After an hour of flying the oil on the dip stick is still thick and cool. This is not good. Is there any way to change this?|
|2006-01-11||Dave Rutherford||AD Compliance||In regard to AD's 79-11-05 and 79-18-07 (inspection for wood deterioration in empennage and wing), I would like to gather reports from any owners who have either received an FAA approval for an alternate means of compliance (other than fabric removal), or have gained an extension of the compliance interval. I am already aware of the borescope inspection provision for the fin, but am concerned with the rest of the inspection, not approved to be done with a borescope, that requires fabric removal each 36 months. If you have any information, comments or stories to tell about your experience with the FAA in relation to these two AD's, please e-mail me. The information you send will not be published. Thanks!|
|2006-01-11||Richard Reibel, N4050||Electrical System||Considering this is my first Mooney Mite, would you by chance have any recommendations to parts sources and problem solving; such as adding an electrical system to the 18C with an A65-8 engine? All the help you and your friends could give would be greatly appreciated!|
|2005-12-24||Keith Mackey, N4159||Fabric Work||One of the reasons that I was able to get N4159 back in the air in 19 months was because I had the wing, tail and control surfaces recovered by Herb Clark of Herbco in nearby Weirsdale, Florida. Herb has his own private airstrip with an immaculate shop. He is very experienced in aircraft restoration, particularly with Pitts and Stearmans. He has done lots of fabric work using the PolyFiber process and now has experience with the Mite. I would certainly recommend him to anyone with a complete restoration project or one that has "stalled out" I've built a web page for him and thought you might want to put a link to his site in the "Sources" section of the Buy Sell page.
I did an article on the Mite for his site. The URL is: http://www.pittsfabric.com/mite.htm
The home page is http://www.pittsfabric.com
|2005-12-09||Forrest Lovley, N4068||Emblems||I am rebuilding Fred Schmidt's Mite. It has a brass Mooney sign on each side cowl. I'm told that Fred had some brass ones cast and assume that these are two of them. Can someone tell me if the originals were chrome plated or not? 952-492-6126|
|2005-11-27||Larry Omps, N4146||Wing||I am looking for instructions for removing the wing from my Mite for transporting. If anyone could assist me with this information it would be great. Thanks, Larry T. Omps 540-664-2084 Winchester, Virginia.|
|2005-11-11||Dick Rank, N125C||Blister||While at Fred Schmidt's auction, I was able to buy the mold for the blister on the lower right forward fuselage. We can make them if needed.|
|2005-11-07||Rod Tatchio||Spinner||I need a new spinner for an M-18C. I have looked in the catalogs but can't determine which one will work, I would like to get a fiberglass spinner. Is there one you would recommend?|
|2005-10-15||Sigmund Chrzanowski, N70DV||New ownership||I have just purchased a Mooney Mite N70DV serial no. 218. I would like to get in contact with someone who really knows the Mite, especially if they are an IA. I live in northern Illinois. Do you have a suggestion as to who to go to for an annual?|
|2005-10-10||Scott Royall, N4172||Fuel Tank||I am about to mount the fuel tank in my Mite. Is felt still the best cushion to use?|
|2005-10-04||Lew Moon, N4180||Control Cable||During my annual I found the right rudder cable was wrapped around the elevator push tube, one complete turn. That didn't seem right because it was rerouted under the wooden standoff before going up to the pulley. I unwound it and now have too much slack in that cable. I hope I did the right thing.|
|2005-09-23||Bob Katz, N4155||Cylinder||I have a Continental A75 with a cracked cylinder. Need a replacement. Anybody know where I can find one? I'm in southern California. Thanks.|
|2005-09-20||Geoff Sides||Landing Gear||I've been trying to find some small, manual, light weight, CHEAP, retractable landing gear help!!! thanks, Geoff|
|2005-09-11||Dan Holden, N395A||Re-covering tail feathers||I am recovering the tail feathers of my Mite. Should the ribs of the
horizontal and vertical stabilizers, the elevators, and/or the rudder be rib
stitched? The Stits manual says to do so if it was that way originally. Any advice?
|2005-09-08||Charlie Collman, N4168||On-Off fuel valve source||Does anyone know a source for the "Imperial" on-off fuel valves or any method of repair? My present valve is very hard to turn on and off.|
|2005-09-03||Gus Hertz, N70DV||Tire Tube||I pulled out my last invoice from Desser and see that the tubes that came with the 400 x 4 tires were: TU10/350-4 Tube 410/350-4, 400-4, 260-85 at $10.95 each. They were a perfect fit.|
|2005-09-02||Gus Hertz, N70DV||Tony's Checklist||Tony Terrigno's Annual checklist contains references to AD 76-7-12 and AD 78-9-7. Neither of these appear to be on the Mite Web site. What are these AD's and where does one find them?|
|2005-09-02||Gus Hertz, N70DV||Tires||I got tubes to fit the 400 x 4 from Desser. Try www.desser.com|
|2005-07-21||Scott Royall, N4172||Light Sport landing gear||Hi Dick,
I have thought about how to modify the Mite to comply with Light Sport. I think that removing the outboard bell crank and pushrod, and replacing the over center link with a rod with threaded pushrod ends might meet the requirements. The threaded ends of the replacement rods would allow for fine adjustment of the length needed. It would be an easy conversion and an easy refit. To satisfy the FAA that the conversion was not temporary, covering the wheel well with fabric would be fairly easy and would look very permanent. Again, a refit wouldn't be very tough. Let me know what you think. Scott
|2005-07-12||Jim Belding||propeller||I would appreciate any recommendations on a propeller for my M18C with a Continental A65-8 engine. It came originally with a Flottorp 65-A66 prop. A year later, a Wilbur Tenner of Geraldine, MT, elev. 3115, changed it to a metal McCauley 67” long 54 degree pitch prop. It has never been changed and never overhauled for over 1100 hours total time.
I find it to be slow in cruise, about 118 mph at 8000-10,000 feet and 2250 rpm. It climbs out at about 500 fpm. I’m based in Sedona, AZ elev. 4800’ where our density altitude is usually above 7000 feet.
It’s a pretty good climb prop, but I wonder if due to age it has lost or varied it’s pitch, and if a new recommended wooden or metal prop would give me closer to book cruise speed and a reasonable climb, or have my existing prop overhauled and re-pitched to?
|2005-07-07||Dick Rank.||landing gear||I wonder if one were to weld or bolt on sleeves on main and nose gear locks, the Mite can be classified in the experimental light sport aircraft category. Then it could be flown with only a driver's license, a good thing for those of us old coots without a medical. It might be quite legal.|
|2005-07-03||Jim Belding||tire tube||Anyone know of a source for a 400x4 tire tube? Would a 410/350x4 tube work? Only one I could find so far.|